To remove the unsightly bonding from the firewall i used a sharp chisel and 80 grit sandpaper, i made sure all the excess bonding was cleaned off and flush with the joints.
To fill any gaps and smooth the rough edges i used a filler that is designed to repair plastic and fibreglass bumpers, this filler has fibreglass stands in it to add strength, flexability and resist vibration better than normal body filler.
Once i was happy with the smoothing i applied two coats of twin pack high build primer, this was sanded back with 240 grit paper and showed the high spots, i touched up the problem areas then applied two more coats of high build and flatted back with 400 grit paper.
I then applied two coats of dark blue base coat, i havent decided on the final colour but the dark base coat will help the final dark colour cover the light grey high build.
I used the smae methods on the heater/AC box, the picture shows the result after the first coat of high build and sanding back.
The whole process is a long time consuming job, but these components will never be off the car again (I hope) and attention to detail at this stage will make the engine bay look stunning.
Next i moved on to the rear body mount (number 4), the mount consists of a steel reinforcment 'cup' that sits over the fibreglass mount, the fixing bolt goes through the chassis mount, washers, bush, cup, body into a caged nut located in the rear of the cockpit on top of the wheel arch.
The old and new mounts, the steel cups are prone to rot due to being located in the rear wheel arches, these will be subjected to all the water and grime thrown up by the rear wheels.
The steel cups are mounted to the body by 7 rivets, the rear rivet (furthest away in the picture) is hard to fix due to the proximity of the mount and the rear of the wheel arch.
I wanted to make sure that no water could slash up and be held in the cup, i used Sikaflex to seal the top edges and around the sides.
The mount fixed in position with stainless steel rivets installed from inside the cockpit.