C3-Corvette Restoration

Restoration of a 1977 Corvette Stingray

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December 07

 

 November 07

 

December 2007

Part 2

 

 

Stripdown & Cleanup

 

 

The next step was to get some paint on the chassis, using the air line i cleaned the chassis down ensuring that it was clean and dry.

 

I mixed POR15 and 5% POR thinners and strained into a gravity feed gun and sprayed the first coat in approx 20mins, because it was a cold winters day it would be around four hours before the paint was touch dry and ready for the second coat.

 

 

 

 

 

The finish is almost like enamel, tough and shinney (altho POR15 rust preventive is not UV resistant and a top coat is required) the paint doesnt crack or flake and is very resilient to chipping, should a chip appear, rust will not travel down the metal under the paint and flake the good paint off like many other paints and primers.  POR also cures with moisture, many paints are air cured, this means the painted surface always has micopours that allow air and moisture to penitrate the paint.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

With the second coat on i pulled the chassis undercover for the night, the top coat, to give a factory finish look is Chassis Black, this is designed to go on over POR15 and dries semi gloss.

 

 

 

If you want to check out POR products, have a look here.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I stripped and bandblasted the steering knuckle, dust gaurd, track rod arms etc. these came up like new.

 

 

The front disks were stripped of the bearings and races ready for new, these will require a skim and the run out checked.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The diff and prop shaft were next to clean up, i ran the knotted wheel over them to remove the heavy rust, greese and oil, then sandblasted.

 

This works well and limits the amount of media wasted trying to remove the stubborn patches of rust.

 

The diff was drained of oil and the breather, which is a plastic cap to the rear of the diff, was taped up to prevent sand getting in.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Once i had a few components cleaned and sandblasted i used marine clean to etch them before applying POR, i used black and silver on the diff and half shafts.

 

 

The silver has better 'filling' properties and makes a nice job on pitted surfaces, but i did find that it was very hard to brush on uniformly, the paint seemed to streak no matter how well it was stired, this would be better sprayed on in my opinion, but a top coat will be required as the silver, like the black is not UV resistant.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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