C3-Corvette Restoration

Restoration of a 1977 Corvette Stingray

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February 2009

Part 2

 

 

Body Work

 

 

With the body finally flatted back and the guide coat gone, i went round the body and checked each panel, nook and crany for imperfections.

 

The body was moved to the spray shop by low loader on the dolly last time, this proved to be a hard ride as the dolly has no suspension and uan uneven bed (6 wheels on teh dolly) so the dolly didnt sit true on teh deck.

This time i decided to put the body back on the chassis, this will allow the cars suspension to absorb any uneven surfaces on the way back to the spray shop. the chassis will also support the body and front clip better than the dolly.

 

The next stage was to get the chassis up to speed ready for re-uniting the body, i decided to parkerize the nuts, bolts and (some) washers on the chassis rebuild to prevent the enevitable rust process.

 

 

 

 

I used a stainless steel cooking pan with a glass lid, the process is very smelly so the job is better done outside (or in the garage) so i also purchased a cheap camping stove.

 

All the parts were sandblasted then cleaned down with thinners, i used thinners in place of degreaser as they do teh same job but thinners evaporate quicker.

 

Depending on which tutorial you read teh method of pakerizing will differ slightly.  The main objective is to get a very fine layer build up on the surface of the metal to retain oil and prevent the metal oxodising (rust!).

 

This explains it better: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Parkerize

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I used a 3% ratio of phosphate to distilled water adding a teaspoon of manganese per litre of water.

After boiling the liquid for 30mins and stiring to disolve the ingredients i lowered the bolts into the pot, using a stainless steel sieve, the liquid was kept just below boiling point.

The metal will 'fizz', after the fizzing has stopped the parts are ready to be removed, rinsed off in clean water, dried and oil applied.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I used WD40, this is a fine oil and the spray was easier to apply, some people leave the metal for several hours before applying the oil.

 

The liquid can be re-used again, but you should clean out the thick residue at the botom of the pot first.

 

The bolts came out dark in colour due to the manganese, i tried another method using less manganese (approx 1 teaspoon full in 5 litres of water) and the parts came out brighter.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Using less manganese i tried another method i had read about, first take your components and clean as before, then boil the parts in clean water for 10 mins, from there into the solution and leave for 15mins (or until the fizzing stops) then back into the boiling (clean) water and boil again for a few minutes to clean off surplus solution, when you take them out, the heat change will make dry the parts instantly allowing the application of oil.

 

This method i found gave the results i was looking for, the parts in the picture were slightly darker once the oil had been applied.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I still have to decide on an actual colour for the paintwork, i know the colour i want, its finding it amoungst the thousands of colour swatches i have looked through so far, and i thought the prep was hard work!

 

Next month i will continue the chassis prep and start preparing the gauges and interior while i look through more colour swatches............

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

   <== Previous Page     March 09 ==>

 

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